Iconic Styles: The Stiletto
Fashion & Beauty Vintage

Iconic Styles: The Stiletto

The Stiletto heel is probably *the* iconic heel shape.

Heels come in many other shapes, but none is as instantly recognisable, even to people who aren’t obsessed with shoes, as the stiletto.

The word stiletto is an Italian word for a long slim dagger. Although Roger Vivier is often credited with creating the stiletto heel for the House of Dior in 1954, designer Andre Perugia had designed shoes with a thin high heel for Parisian singer Minstinguett in the 1940s. Possibly the privations of war time prevented the style from really taking off before the 1950s as practicality and functionality were key watchwords.

Vivierfor Dior

A classic stiletto heel had a core of metal, and was often no more than 5mm wide for much of it’s length, though could flare slightly at the tip. In a vintage fashion sense a stiletto heel can finish off a 50s outfit. A classic 50s stiletto, as created by Roger Vivier, has a low cut vamp across the foot and instep and a pointed toe and was really popularised in the 1950s by stars like Jayne Mansfield, who claimed to have 200 pairs, and Marilyn Monroe.

Marilyn stiletto

marilyn stiletto1

A high stiletto heel creates the illusion of longer legs, smaller feet, and throws the shape of the body out accentuating the bust and bottom, perhaps explaining some of it’s popularity as a fetish item. A very high stiletto can also be very difficult to walk on, reducing the wearer to a slow totter. I’m not planning to comment on the politics of the shoe, but it is very definitely a fashion item that can make women appear vulnerable.

Still, unless they have straps they can easily be kicked off and a good stiletto makes a damn fine weapon in a pinch!

1950 stiletto

paris stiletto

The stiletto wasn’t only damaging to the feet, it also damaged floors, and by the late 1950s many airlines and buildings had banned them. I still remember women being asked not to wear stilettos to my school when I was young as they could damage the floors.

The stiletto heel has gone in and out of fashion over the years, in the late 60s and 70s it fell out of favour before being rediscovered in the 1980s and becoming a power dressing essential. In the 90s heels again became blocky, before the stiletto once again began to find favour in the late 90’s.

50sfashion-dior-dress-henryclarkephoto-e1297163613363

I own several pairs of stiletto heels in various styles, including a recently acquired and not yet worn leopard print pair! I never wear them to walk far in these days, they’re the sort of shoe you change into when you get there, but there are times when a stiletto heel just seems more elegant.

The shoes below are from LK Bennet (via eBay), New Look and Red or Dead from left to right. The bottom shoes are from Faith.

stilettp

Stilettos aren’t hard to find. But these are a few of my vintage inspired style favourites from the current high street.

Rosalyne Court Shoe £20 Peacocks

shoe

Pointed Toe Court Shoes with V Throat £35 Barratts

Barrats Shoe

Addict Studded Pointed toe High Heel Court Shoe £85 Dune

(not sure studs are strictly period correct, but these are a gorgeous shape and would add a bit of edge to a 50s outfit!)

Dune

Pigalle 100 Patent Leather Pumps £375 Christian Louboutin @ Net a Porter

louboutin

 

 

 

 

9 Comments

  • Perdita January 25, 2013

    I love the look of them on other people, but just can’t do pointy toes. For me the closest I like to wear is a lace up shoe-boot or dance shoe with a narrow heel – or a (rare) round toed one. I especially like a curving ‘flare’ on the bottom of the heel. I had a late 90s pair of Dolcis boots with that I wore until they literally came apart at the stitches (having been re-heeled many times).

    • Retro Chick January 25, 2013

      I more often go for a rounded toe as well I have to say!

  • Tasha @ By gum, by golly! January 25, 2013

    It’s an interesting point you bring up about it becoming a power dressing essential in the 80s. Of the two pair of stilettos I own, I used one as interview shoes with a suit when I was last job-hunting. I got the job so they were definite ‘power shoes’ to me. lol But in general I love the look of many stilettos on others but tend to lean towards a bit more of a sturdier and comfortable 40s-style heel myself. But stilettos are certainly more slim and graceful in many ways!

    • Gemma January 25, 2013

      I do tend to wear a sturdier heel more often, but a stiletto does feel terribly glamorous sometimes!

  • Jamie "ChatterBlossom January 26, 2013

    I love love love them, but have had to switch over to a larger heel recently to be able to dance in them. 😉

  • Gilly January 26, 2013

    I love them I wear them everyday!

  • Tinique Hay January 29, 2013

    London Ethnic is a fashion house online retailer company (www.londonethnic.com) we are currently in the process of organising a charity fashion show party. All in aid of a much-loved charity Help A Capital Child, Capital FM’s charity. This will be one of the biggest closing parties London Fashion Week has ever had before.
    Tickets are £20 but we would love for you to be our guests and maybe you could write a blog about London Ethnic before the fashion show which is on the 19th Feb 🙂

    Is this something you would be interested in attending?

    Hope to hear from you soon
    Kind Regards

    Tinique Hay
    Events Executive

  • lizamber January 29, 2013

    I agree with other comments, as I also prefer a rounded toe (simply because I feel that my feet look huge in pointed shoes). I wish I could feel comfortable in stilettos as they do look glamorous and make a difference to the way a woman moves (although as you pointed out this is a whole rather uncomfortable discussion by itself).

  • Margaret January 31, 2013

    I love the look of stilettos, but for some reason I’ve never actually bought a pair for myself, even though I’ve definitely come across some very magnificent ones ^^

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